We headed south from San Antonio to Big Bend National Park. Big Bend is about the size of Rhode Island and borders on the Rio Grande River. The American Vagabonds always try to visit national parks and forests as they are unique and special places. An added benefit from this visit was to see an elementary school classmate of Joan's, who lives in Study Butte, just to the west of the park.
Big Bend is a desert, but doesn't have the sand dunes that we generally associate with deserts. Big Bend has rocks, rocks, and more rocks. It has canyons and cactus plants. The colors of the desert are not just brown. They are red, kelly green, sage green, yellow, and many hues and tones in between. In fact, the colors inspired Joan to purchase paints and try to capture the colors on canvas---with mediocre results!
As we drove along Rt. 385, we saw nothing but rocks and cactus. Once in a while a dirt road branched off to the side. We saw a sign pointing to Hot Springs, and thought that an interesting name. (More about that later.) The road to our campground, Rio Grande Village, was about 50 miles long into the desert.
When we arrived, we picked up a map and drove around to find our campsite. The first thing we saw as we rounded a corner, was a Javelina (hav-uh-LEE-nuh) an animal that resembles a black, hairy pig, but is not from the 'pig family', which ran into the brush when it saw us. Our campsite was across from a trail that we were told was a perfect way to view the sunsets. We unloaded the scooter and changed into hiking boots.
We settled in and before sunset, we ventured onto the trail. As soon as we began, there was a sign saying it was unlawful to purchase items from Mexican Nationals. This was a little puzzling until we started the climb up the canyon. We came upon a little display of hand-crafted trinkets and a paper giving prices for them. There was a jar to put money in. As we hiked on surrounding trails, we would come across these displays, some with very pretty items. What we realized was that at sometime, most likely during the night, the crafters would sneak across the Rio Grande River to put out their wares and collect any money from the jars. We never saw any money in the jars, so business couldn't have been very good. Also, they were taking a big risk trying to sell illegally.
We continued up the trail, and found a few others on the bluff waiting for the sunset. Unfortunately, it wasn't very spectacular, but the view was. We could see Mexican cowboys riding horses along the river on the other side. Here was the famed Rio Grande River, rolling along below us, with specatular buttes on the other side.
That evening, we went to the ampitheater to listen to a ranger speak about the park. She was informative and we could tell her love of the desert and all of its uniqueness. At the end of her talk, she brought our attention to the night sky. The stars seemed to be within reach, more stars than we have seen in a long time. The park has made a concerted effort to reduce the lighting and the dry air makes the constellations visible with the naked eye.
The next day, Wednesday, we rode the scooter into Study Butte to find Joan's classmate. This was a 50 mile ride--one way through the desert. Study Butte is a very small community, and it wasn't difficult to locate the bank where Carol works, and we arranged to meet for lunch on Friday. We then rode to Terlingua, a ghost town, that used to be a mining community. We then headed back the 50 miles to camp.
When we got to the turn off for Hot Springs, James decided to follow that gravel road to see what the Hot Springs were. The road soon narrowed and became rough and difficult to navigate. At the end of the road, we hiked a quarter mile to the springs. We passed abondoned buildings that used to be a resort in the 1930s and 1940s. In places, the trail was narrowed by rocks that had broken off the cliffs above. At the springs, we found people floating a a small, pool-like area. We took off our shoes and socks and put our feet in the water. WARM! The water that comes from the spring is 1050 F. It then flows into the Rio Grand. We rode the scooter back over the rough road, spotting three mountain goats scampering over a hillside.
The next morning, we decided to hike to the Hot Springs, to 'take the waters.' The signage said the Hot Springs Canyon Trail is 3 miles long. What it didn't say is how difficult a trail it is. We went over bluffs, down limestone, shale, and sandstone canyon sides, and over rocky ground. At one time, this area was under water and we saw a ammonite fossil imbedded in the rock. Along the trail we saw the droppings of large, unknown animals. We did know that there are Mexican Black Bears and Mountain Lions in the area.
After almost two hours over difficult terrain we reached the spring. There was another couple there, lounging in the warm water. We removed our boots, socks, and eased into the water. It was like soaking in a very warm bathtub. Instead of rejuvenating us, the warmth made us lethargic. Joan did not feel that she could return on the trail and we decided to go by the road. It would be longer, but easier walking. But, we were fortunate, some kind people gave us rides. One gave James a ride back to get the scooter while Joan waited. Joan then got a ride to the paved road, saving James tranversing the diffiuclt gravel road.
Friday morning, we loaded the scooter, and left Big Bend. It is a wonderous place of unusual geology, animal life, plants, and insects. Along the trails we saw no litter, only resepct for nature. We drove to Study Butte so Joan could reminiss with Carol the past 50+ years since they had last met.
James on scooter.
Joan at Hot Springs.
Rio Grande River rolling past Hot Spring.
Sunset on the ridge.
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